Page 22 - September October 2000

Keeping Wheels on the Track
John Wright
After Federal Street’s first public exhibition, an NMRA meeting at Ulverston and about 18 months building and development, it’s perhaps time to reflect and put down a few PROTO 87 thoughts in the hope they may be of value to fellow modellers.
Keeping wheels on the track is the name of the game in Proto 87 and leaving aside descriptions of scenery, baseboards, electrics etc. that are part and parcel of any layout, all the trials and tribulations are towards this end. ‘Tis the price that has to be paid for trying to fulfil that insatiable desire for functional realism which can be both a blessing and at times a curse.
Firstly, the track...
Micro-Engineering code 75 flexible track was used on all sections that were not turnouts. This has proven durable and realistic in appearance.
Comments were received during the course of the exhibition and everyone agreed on its huge improvement over Peco, Shinohara, Atlas etc.. It should be more widely used in my opinion, it’s a pity there isn’t a wider range of M-E turnout options for standard HO. Turnouts were scratchbuilt from code 65 and 75 flatbottom nickel silver rail and copper-clad ties. The full method can be found at:
http://home.freeuk.net/nmrabr/ track/turnout1.htm
I found making these successfully to Proto 87 standards was a severe test of my skills. There proved to be very little leeway in error in any of the gauging dimensions and double and triple checking with the track gauges is essential. All types of track gauges were found to be useful, Ed McCamey’s, Alan Gibson’s and even the good old NMRA gauge came in at times. You can’t have too many gauges but you can have too few...
It is vital to have the point of the switch rail flush with the stock rail. In P 87 the slightest protrusion will derail the cars. Filing to a knife edge, rounding with fine emery paper and undercutting of the stock rail is my solution. But I had to go back to a couple of turnouts after they were laid in order to get it right throughout all the turnouts on the layout. The ‘floating tie bar’ system ( switch rails not soldered to tie-bar ) worked well as usual.
One of the Scale Shops TOUs had a problem with the screw that drives the act bar becoming detached from the neoprene tube that connects it to the motor. This was cured with a drop of AC. Other than that the only maintenance was cleaning the copper contacts prior to the show where it was again proven to be useful having them placed on the top of the baseboard for easy access.
CONSTRUCTOR’S CORNER...
Scribblings #3
HO Resin Freight Car Kits
Paul Doggett
Resin kits area easy (“Rubbish” did I hear someone say?) Well, if you buy a good kit from Westerfield, Sunshine, or any of the other good manufacturers, all you need do is follow the instructions, and use a little common sense like putting the weight in before closing up the body!
“Resin kits are expensive.” Yes and no. They are if all you have bought before are Athearn etc. especially at second-hand prices. But they are less than, say, a new Kadee PS-1. Most resin kits are about £18 plus trucks and couplers.
“They take a long time to build.” Yes, if you compare them to clipping a “shake the box” kit together. On the other hand, you can have 8 hours of ‘relaxation time’ over 4 or 5 evenings.
What are the advantages of these kits? Well you will have something most other modellers do not. Also the odds on your kit being brought out by a mass production manufacturer are quite remote. Also you will have built something you can be proud of (pride might be politically incorrect in this day and age, but so what!)
Also you have things like raised roof box cars, odd hand grabs (drop at one end, straight at the other) Hancock handbrakes, bolts where grabs etc. have been moved (see photos.) All this gives your model character.
“I don’t like using Superglue - my fingers always get stuck!” Always have some ACC debonder in your modelling toolbox, or like me pull your fingers apart, but be careful. My fingers are pretty tough through work- hardening! Superglue is great for these kits - you must wash all parts before you start to remove any grease or mould release. “JIF” is good, but don’t use washing up liquids - they usually have lanolin in them.
When using superglue, a little goes a long way, don’t use too much. Also the thicker “gel” types give you more working time to position parts correctly. (Eds. Note - also gels are “small-gap filling”, unlike the regular ACC.)
Tools: Tools you already have will probably do most of the work. You will need a pin chuck and the small drills numbered #75 to #80. Places like Squires will supply these.
When you have washed, drilled and glued, you will need a coat of paint, followed by decals. Decals come with all the kits. The main thing is to read the instructions before you start, and follow them closely. Are resin kits difficult? No but they do need time and care.
The photo below shows the Hancock hand brake on a Sunshine CB&Q XA 11A 40ft. automobile box car. Also drop grab with straight right hand side, and unusual bolt pattern caused by repositioning grab irons, and raised roof.
22 ROUNDHOUSE