Page 9 - September October 2015

Creating rust on buildings and railroad stock Ron Gager
I think it was Andrew Dunne of the South Shore Group who showed me this, but talking to many members at shows I find it is not generally well known. Some are even buying rust decals! So, here goes!
Obtain one or more small tubes of rust coloured “Designer” GOUACHE from an art shop. Typically that would be burnt sienna, burnt umber, raw umber, or raw sienna, it’s your choice. Generally the darker shades of rust are the older and more 3D deposits.
3D is a great advantage of gouache, because it comes out of the tube quite thickly, and can be built up into a thick clump or streak as ancient rust often is. Put it where you need it on roof or car side and let it dry for a day or so. Return with a damp brush of a size/width to suit your needs and stroke it gently downwards over the deposit. Being water­soluble, just a thin layer of the gouache will be reactivated and streak downwards,
giving that characteristic rusty transparency we see so often, leaving the original lettering visible.
For the calcified deposits leaking from locomotive pipes etc the same technique can be used but with a very slightly yellowish gouache. Maybe a mix of white and a little yellow can be made to taste. Perhaps I should re­phrase that in case someone mistakes this for a recipe.
One disadvantage of gouache is that, being water­based, it will just make globules on shiny plastic. The answer to this is to coat with Testor’s Dullcote first, when it will take quite well.
Your work, if you are not satisfied, can be removed for another try, with a water­damped cloth.
When you are satisfied, a coat of Testor’s Dullcote will fix it permanently, as is usual with powder or other types of weathering. Good luck, and do share your knowhow.
Above: Some rust to play with!
Peter Cox photo of CFP Heisler at Vancouver BC
In much nicer condition, right, another Peter Cox picture of Ontario Northland 1202 at North Bay ON
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