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Layout
Layout
Layout
pressed steel bracket
plywood gusset, 6mm or thicker
Wider layouts
need more solid brackets. The timber size depends on the weight of the layout. The arrangement shown is an alternative to legs and allows better access to under-layout storage.
12b
Narrow layouts can use simple brackets, either commercial ones as shown on the left or home- made ones. The type where a metal bracket slots into a wall-mounted track is also an option.
12a
scenery has been added gradually. Heavy or very wide layouts will need some sort of leg arrangement.
For legs, the timbers don’t have to be massive because wood is very strong in compression. It is possible to build very strong legs using vertical L-girders made from two pieces of 2” x 1” softwood. You pay for wood (roughly) by its volume so this arrangement will save around 1/3 ofthecostofa3”x2”.
The legs can be screwed or bolted to the longitudinal members of the benchwork. It is a good idea to adjust the legs until the layout is horizontal, then clamp them and screw or bolt them in place. You may also think it worthwhile to fit height-adjusters to the bottoms of the legs. These will be covered part 2 of this guide.
You will also need some sort of diagonal bracing to stiffen the legs. A suitable arrangement is shown in 13a. Not all legs on a permanent layout require this much bracing.
11 showed how fascias can be added to L-girder layouts. For door-based layouts, a fascia can be screwed to the front edge. If it is made to protrude below the door, the overhang can be used to carry switches and other controls.
A similar arrangement can be used for frame layouts but the overhang might make the sides very deep. An alternative is to stand the fascia off from the side of the frame using small softwood blocks. The space created behind the fascia can provide clearance for the electrical components and wiring. If the fascia is screwed (not glued) into place it can be removed for maintenance. An alternative is to have it hinged along its lower edge. The top can then be held in place by magnetic door catches so you can simply flip it open for maintenance or to make changes. Another way is a fixed fascia and a small hinged control panel.
Wiring
Although wiring will be covered in a later article, some consideration should be given to it when designing the benchwork. For example, it is good idea to provide holes in any cross members so that bus wires and the like can be threaded through them.
“Optional extras”
A really useful addition to a fixed layout is to have a shelf along the lower edge if aisle space permits. It can be fixed to the joists or cross-members and cantilevered out as shown in 11. Shelves are useful for holding car cards, switch lists, pens and the like. They will also become a parking place for coffee cups. It is a law of the universe that these will be knocked over unless you provide some sort of cup holder. (And even this is no guarantee!) A place to park throttles will also be useful and both “throttle holsters” and cup holders are available commercially.
It is worth varnishing or painting the finished woodwork. This will help prevent humidity changes affecting the wood. Some water-based paints are porous so, to be on the safe side, an oil based type should be used.
Resources
There are many books and videos that cover benchwork. One book that is very thorough is “Basic Model Railroad Benchwork” by Jeff Wilson. (ISBN:978-0-89024-836-2). It is published by Model Railroader and available in the UK. It has over 100 pages and covers tools and woodworking in addition to the technicalities of benchwork.
Model Railroader Video Plus on-line video magazine has many videos of MR’s project railroads. These usually have step-by-step video of the benchwork part of the project. It is usually also covered in Model Railroader and other magazines.
There is also a lot of free benchwork information on the web. Try searching on “model railroad benchwork” for articles and (you guessed it!) “model railroad benchwork videos” for “how to” videos.
The companies below manufacture baseboards. They are listed (alphabetically) for your information but without any specific recommendation.
Elite Baseboards http://www.elitebaseboards.net/
Laser-cut baseboard kits http://www.timhorn.co.uk/
Model Railway Solutions https://modelrailwaysolutions.co.uk/shop/modular-baseboard- systems
White Rose Baseboards http://www.whiterosemodelworks.co.uk/
... and don’t forget, NMRA British Region’s greatest asset is its members - ask around for help and guidance.
Next time
This section of the guide has covered fixed layouts. In the next part we will look at portable and modular ones.
13a
13b
Plywood gusset on far side of leg
You can save the cost and work of half the legs by fixing one side of the layout to a wall as in 13b, which shows a possible arrangement using L-girders. Arrangements similar to 13a and 13b can be used for frame layouts or slab layouts. However. building something like 13a to sup- port a door-based layout does beg the question of why not add sheet of plywood and forget the door?
Something we haven’t addressed is layout height. General opinion is that the optimum is around chest height. However, you may have special considerations, such as the layout being operated by children. If this or other circumstance force you to have a lower layout, remember you can always operate it from a seated position.
Although more strictly part of planning, access to the layout is a consideration. Duck-unders should be avoided if possible. You can construct opening gate or lifting sections. These are beyond this “basics” guide but they have been covered regularly in the model press.
Fascias
Some sort of fascia along the front of the layout is a good idea, either for cosmetic reasons or to carry throttle panels, turnout controls and the like. It can be made from thin plywood, hardboard or MDF.