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around the curve, you can get almost invisible track joints without soldering. It is a good idea to gently pre-bend the rails, but I have not always done this and it has worked well (it actually improves contact within the track joiner), but only on very broad curves. This method of staggered joining will also keep the track ‘in gauge’, and on curves this is most important. I will cover this in more detail in Part 2.
Vertical Curvature
When the gradient of the track changes, then there is a vertical curve in the track. It is important that this vertical curve should be as gentle as possible if you are to avoid coupler separations between vehicles, vehicles where there is a long distance between the bogie centre and the coupler being especially susceptible. I have included a photo (below) from the base of my helix where the track starts to climb. The same smooth transition will be needed at the top of the incline also.
Curves - General
We have all seen impressive telephoto shots of trains on lines that look little better than the worst mining track you can think of. However this doesn’t work well for models, as most models do not have the flexibility of movement, weight or spring-loaded suspension found on the prototype. Your track should follow smooth lines and be as level as possible, and not just to stop some of the modern RTR stock from rolling away.
You should always try to make curves flow, with the same radius throughout. Now I know there will be those of you that will say that you have to use transition curves at each end of a curve, but these can be quite complicated to work out (unless using some of the better computer software), and even harder to draw on the baseboards. I have always added these by eye where I felt it was important to smooth the curve into the straight for visual effect. Otherwise I rarely bother, nothing will be travelling that fast! Where I have put transition curves in, I have found that using a
larger radius Tracksetta to the one used on the main curve is the easiest way to achieve the same result without any complicated maths.
I also recommend the use of these excellent tools for getting consistent curves and straights anywhere on the layout. I would also recommend the use of a 2’ or 3’ steel rule held against the rails to assist with this too. If you are going to be adding a second track, then there are various tools to make this a breeze too. Peco make a basic, but fragile double track spacer. Proses make fixed and adjustable ones, but these are a bit ‘sloppy’ for Codes 75 and 83 rails. For curves, my favourite is the Fast Tracks SweepSticks® and SpaceGage®. Of course, you can also make your own from a piece of thick plastic or modelling ply. All those mentioned can be seen in the photo above. The SweepSticks® are 30” & 321⁄2” radius.
Points (or Turnouts)
We now move onto points or turnouts, whichever you prefer but turnout is the technically correct name – the points are the moveable rails – the blades in the illustration below. A turnout is an item that can often cause so much grief if not handled with a little care and forethought. Whichever code of rail you have opted to use, you should not plan to operate, or change the turnout direction with your fingers between the two blades. The use of a point throwing device (ground throw) similar to that made by Caboose Industries, or the use of some form of electric point throw is highly recommended. Using your fingers to throw them (and most folk do tend to push the points over by the blades) can cause irreparable damage to the blade retainers. This often results in the need to replace the turnout – which is never an easy task. Using your fingers on the blades can also leave a lot of grease behind that has secreted naturally from your body. This grease does not assist with lubricating the turnout nor does it aid electrical conductivity. I would recommend that you keep your fingers off from the outset, or only push gently on the extreme ends of the tie-bar (where indicated below). An alternative manual system is the “wire in tube” method with the push/pull rod threaded through a tube embedded in the baseboard surface to a suitable switch mechanism.
Turnout illustration courtesy of