boxfile layouts

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Posts: 77
Joined: Fri Oct 09, 2015 4:22 pm

Re: boxfile layouts

Post by deanobeano »

Hi Alex,

Whilst not having built one I would be really interested in seeing any photos you have of the build so far. I have a 3way point in the plan for one of my N scale modules but as yet haven’t laid it or decided fully how to operate it although I’m really tempted to use servos.

Kind regards

Dean Halls
Posts: 110
Joined: Fri Jul 03, 2009 7:05 pm

Re: boxfile layouts

Post by tunnelmotor »


Chris White, a former NMRA member and renowned for his N scale layout Meadow Ridge and later an O scale version, has a business called Boxfile Dioramas. If you have not heard about it check out the internet and search for his layout Sandy Cove. There is some discussion of this subject on RMWeb.

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Joined: Tue Mar 15, 2011 2:13 pm

Re: boxfile layouts

Post by 800627 »

Alex, an excellent idea.
Some years ago Chris Pollard built Boxford in OO on four, possibly five, inverted box files glued together as an entry in a Hornby micro layout competition being placed second or third.
I have been looking at building US outline T-Trak modules and the A4 size is perfect for a low cost base if adopting the Aussie Mini-T format with its single main line and more flexible length, as it will accommodate six standard Kato straights, ie 372mm on its 370mm. My deliberations have been between inside or on the inverted box, with the latter probably swinging it because this might be easier when it comes to deciding how to accommodate corners for a continuous set-up.
Posts: 406
Joined: Fri Jul 03, 2009 7:05 pm

Re: boxfile layouts

Post by Mike_R »

My Father is helping me with the three way point, he is using slide switches to change both the switches and the polarity.
any views on this would be most appreciated.
I've used both slide and toggle switches to move the to move the blades and switch the frog. Both work well, just make sure the switches can move far enough to make the contacts work. For slide switches I put the operating wire through the switch handle and then solder a bit of tube, washer or wire each on side, for the handle to push against, this gives adjustment. For toggle switches I wrap the operating wire around the base of the toggle, the size of the hole in the wrapped wire gives the adjustment. For both spring loaded turnouts make it easier to do, as the spring makes sure the blades are fully over.
Mike Ruby
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