I want to build a bit of track using the old handlaying methods of rail, wooden ties and spikes. A question for anyone out there with experience: is it advisable to pre-drill holes into the ties or is simple pressure sufficient to successfully drive the spike home using a traditional spiking tool (I have the one from Micro-Mark)? The ties are made from strips of obechi.
Mike Arnold
Handlaid Track
-
- Posts: 110
- Joined: Fri Jul 03, 2009 7:05 pm
Handlaid Track
Mike Arnold
tunnelmotor@tiscali.co.uk
tunnelmotor@tiscali.co.uk
Re: Handlaid Track
I quite like the idea of hand laid, but who in the UK has a good supply of wooden ties, spikes and rail?
Cheers, Koos
Cheers, Koos
Koos Fockens -Devon UK. North American Model Railroading
Age is just a case of mind over matter. If you don't mind, then it doesn't matter.
Age is just a case of mind over matter. If you don't mind, then it doesn't matter.
-
- Posts: 110
- Joined: Fri Jul 03, 2009 7:05 pm
Re: Handlaid Track
Koos,
I get suitably sized wood strips from my local hobby shop, the Hobby Box in Uckfield (10% discount for NMRA members) and use Micro Engineering spikes which any Walthers agent should be able to get for you.
Mike Arnold
I get suitably sized wood strips from my local hobby shop, the Hobby Box in Uckfield (10% discount for NMRA members) and use Micro Engineering spikes which any Walthers agent should be able to get for you.
Mike Arnold
Mike Arnold
tunnelmotor@tiscali.co.uk
tunnelmotor@tiscali.co.uk
Re: Handlaid Track
My track on Pine Point Mill used balsa ties, cut from 4" wide sheets, spikes can be easily pushed through them. The rail is Shinohara code 70 and PECO code 75.
I find that you need to support a spike well when pushing in, I start by holding 2/3 of it pushing as far I can then doing another third until it is all in. I've never tried a spiking tool. I think you will need to experiment.
I do drill plastic ties, using a battery screwdriver and a tiny chuck. I haven't broken a drill bit since I started using it.
Mike Ruby
I find that you need to support a spike well when pushing in, I start by holding 2/3 of it pushing as far I can then doing another third until it is all in. I've never tried a spiking tool. I think you will need to experiment.
I do drill plastic ties, using a battery screwdriver and a tiny chuck. I haven't broken a drill bit since I started using it.
Mike Ruby
Mike Ruby
Re: Handlaid Track
I once did a little bit of test track with some wooden ties and code 70 rail (a long time ago).
I know the trouble with any (Walthers) vendor is that they haven't usually got spikes in stock, although they can order it, but I found some code 100 spikes.
Does it make a huge difference in using code 100 spikes on lets say code 83 or smaller rail, or will it work just fine?
cheers, Koos
I know the trouble with any (Walthers) vendor is that they haven't usually got spikes in stock, although they can order it, but I found some code 100 spikes.
Does it make a huge difference in using code 100 spikes on lets say code 83 or smaller rail, or will it work just fine?
cheers, Koos
Koos Fockens -Devon UK. North American Model Railroading
Age is just a case of mind over matter. If you don't mind, then it doesn't matter.
Age is just a case of mind over matter. If you don't mind, then it doesn't matter.
Re: Handlaid Track
Code 100 spike heads are a bit long for smaller rail. That was all I could get 25 years ago.
When I did the logging line I cut the heads in half, you need the spike to go in close to the rail base to hold the rail in gauge. On plastic track I use the full head as the gauge is held by the ties.
Yes I'm still using the same spikes! I bought enough to spike every tie, but never did that. One day I'll redo the layout and put in smaller spikes.
Mike
When I did the logging line I cut the heads in half, you need the spike to go in close to the rail base to hold the rail in gauge. On plastic track I use the full head as the gauge is held by the ties.
Yes I'm still using the same spikes! I bought enough to spike every tie, but never did that. One day I'll redo the layout and put in smaller spikes.
Mike
Mike Ruby
-
- Posts: 41
- Joined: Fri Jul 03, 2009 7:05 pm
- Contact:
Re: Handlaid Track
Mike
I have handlaid twice and struggled the first time - so much so that I ended up drilling the holes. The subroadbed was some kind of sound deadening very dense board stuff. The second time was a cinch as the subroadbed was foam. I used Xuron spiking pliers.
I got my ties from the States - Kappler basswood - and micro engineering small spikes. I also used micro engineering weathered code 70 rail.
I have found the triangular gauges really helpful ane they ease out on curves slightly which is useful.
Regards
Kathy
I have handlaid twice and struggled the first time - so much so that I ended up drilling the holes. The subroadbed was some kind of sound deadening very dense board stuff. The second time was a cinch as the subroadbed was foam. I used Xuron spiking pliers.
I got my ties from the States - Kappler basswood - and micro engineering small spikes. I also used micro engineering weathered code 70 rail.
I have found the triangular gauges really helpful ane they ease out on curves slightly which is useful.
Regards
Kathy
-
- Posts: 41
- Joined: Fri Jul 03, 2009 7:05 pm
- Contact: